Pattern chart and square for measuring and drafting dresses



`(No Model.) t

L. ROBINSON.

Pattern Chart and Square for Measuring and y vDrafting Dresses. No.242,696. Patented )une 7,1881.

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UNITED STATES Lucie nOnINsON, On Oswneo, New vonk.

PATTERN CHART AND SQUARE FOR MEASUHING AND DRAfTlNG DRESSES.

PATENT OFFICE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 242,696, dated June 7,1881.

Application filed February 4, 1881.

To all whom it may concern Be itknown that I, LUCIE ItOBINsON, ofOswego, inl the county of Oswego and State of NNew York, have inventedcertain new and useful Improvements in Systems of Cutting and FittingGarments; and I do hereby declare that the following is afull, clear,and exactdescription of the invention, which will enable others skilledin the art to which it appertains to make and use the same, referencebeing had t'o the accompanying drawings, and to letters of referencemarked thereon, which form a part of this specification.

The object of my invention is to provide a simple device or instrumentto be used in connection with a common tape-line in laying down thedimensions of the various portions of thehuman form above the waist-linefrom accurate measurements according to a new system, for the productionof patterns to be used in cutting garments for ladies and children.

My invention consists, lirst, in a scale or square of peculiar form,marked with inches and subdivisions of inches, and provided with lines,curves, figures, and marks, as repre sented in the drawings, all ofwhich are utilized in the practical working of my improved system ofdrawing dress-patterns and, second, in the manner of using' this scaleor square, hereinafter speciiied.

The square or scale referred to is clearly represented in. Figure 1 ofthe drawings. Inches y.and subdivisions of inches are marked on thestraight edges, as on a common square, and are brought into use inlaying down the lines and curves, in the manner hereinafter described.

O11 the inner side of the square or scale is a curve, (marked A,)forming part of the inside edge. This curve is designed to aid inshapingthe arm-scye, and the manner of its use is hereinafter described.Parallel with A is a short curve, (marked N,) which is used in shapingthefront of neck. Adjoining curve A is an irregular edge, commencing atP and ending at N". This edge is `used in shaping the waistat the sidesofthe front and back.r

The inner edge of square, opposite igures 22and 23, forms a short curve,(marked NQ) subdivided into four half-inches. This is used for shapingthe back of neck.

(No model.)

The long slot in the square marked X, B, D, and W is used in thefollowing manner: the side marked B in shaping the side forms of backthe side markedD in shaping the darts. The letters X and IV mark theends of these curves.

The directions for using square or scale refer to eleven distinctmeasurements, as exhibited on the diagram Fig. 2. Every line and curvedrawn on the diagram must correspond with the measurement for thatparticular part of the personfor which the pattern is beingprepared.These measurements are as follows in the case of the pattern referred toin this specification first, neck; eleven inches; second, shoulder, sixinches; third, arm-scye, fifteen inches; fourth, under arm, eightinches; fifth, length of hack, sixteen inches; sixth, width of back,twelve inches; seventh, length of front, ifteen-inches eighth, length offront from back of neck to waist, nineteen and one-half inches; ninth,waist, twenty-fourinches; tenth, bust, thirtysix inches; eleventh, hip,forty inches.

Directions: As a hase-line for the diagram for waist-pattern, I drawstraight line marked No. Ion a sheet of paper near and parallel to thebottom edge, and draw line No. 2 at right angles to it near theright-hand edge of the sheet. This is called squaring off;7 and theselines form the cO-ordinates from which the different parts of the waistare measured and laid down.

The first step in figuring the waistpattern is to lay down the length ofback. In the diagram this is supposed to be sixteen inches, measuringfrom back of neck to waist-line. This is laid down by placing the lon gedge of square or scale on line 1, so that the ligure 16 on square orscale is on dot A at the junction oflines 1 and 2, and making dot B atthe angle of the square on line l. From this point draw line across thepaper parallel to line 2.

`This line forms the ordinate for thewaist-line,

and a half" inch from dot G, dot E one-half IOO t draw line across thepaper parallel to lines 2 and 3. This line indicates the length of waistV from armpit to waist-line, the width of back, the foundation ofarm-scye, and the width of bust.

The next step is to locate these different measures in their properplaces on line 5. To do this I first mark width of back by making dot Hon line 5 six inches from dot G on line 1,being half the supposed widthof back-measure. The base-line of arm-scye measure is obtained by makingdot L on line 5 just live inches from dot H, (this being one -third thearm-scye measure, which is supposed to be fifteen inches,) and dot Khalfway between dots H and L.

Next indicate width of bust-measure (which in these measures is supposedto be sixteen inches) by making dot Q at intersection of lines 9 and 13.

Next square off these different measures by drawing line No. 6 fromwaist-line No. 3, parallel to line No. 1, through dot H to line N o. 2;line No. 7 from waist-line No.3 through dotK to line No. 2; line No. 8from waist-line No. 3 through dot L to line No.2; line No.9 through dotQ, from line No. 3 to line No.2. These different lines form ordinatesfor other measure ments, and also separate the different parts of thewaist.

The next step is to obtain data for laying down the front of neck. Thisis done by making dot M on line 2 just two inches from the intersectionVof lines 9 and 2, and dot N on line 9 three inches from the junction oflines 9 and 2 then draw line 11 from M on line 2, parallel to line 9, asshown.

To form basis for shoulder, make dot O on line 1 three inches from thejunction of lines Nos. l and 2, and from this point draw line No. 10across the paper to dot N on line 9. This line forms the true basis forshoulder both back and front, also depth of neck in front.

' Next mark width of back of neck by drawing broken line 12, one and onehalf inch long, one-quarter inch above dot A, stopping at dot I,one-half inch above line 2. This line shapes the back of neck.

Next mark oif the length of shoulder for back (which in these measuresis six inches) by drawing line 16 from dot I to the intersection oflines 6 and 10. To form shoulder for front, which is always the samelength as shoulder for back, I draw lines 17 from dot M to dot V sixinches toward the intersection of lines 6 and 10. g

I next obtain height of darts by making dot P on line 7 two inches belowdot K on line 5. From this point draw line 13 to dot Q on line.

9. To give a proper slope to the line of points of the darts, I make dotR on line 9 two inches below dot Q and draw a line from this point todot I.

I next obtain length of waist in front by making dot S two inches belowthe junction of lines 3 and 9. From this point Idraw line 15 to theintersection of lines 20 and 3. This is to give a proper shape to thewaist in front.

Having laid the foundation for all the different parts of the waist withstraight lines, I proceed to give each part its proper shape by usingthe various curves and lines on the square or scale according to theirseveral adaptations.

Eirst I shape the neck by drawing curve No. 1 with the part of square orscale marked N, measure this curve from N to M, add to this the lengthof line 12, and we have just one-half the neck-measure given on diagram,which proves the neck-measure to be correct. I shape the arm-scye bymaking curve No. 2 with the curve on the square marked A, and which,from its form, is especially adapted for this particular purpose,placing edge of curve at point of shoulder for front, (marked.V,) thepoint P of curve resting on line 7 one-half inch below dot K, the letterA on curve of square, or one-fourth inch inside of line 8. I draw theshape of the curve, and we have armscye for front.

For the back I reverse the curve A on the scale or square, the point Presting on line 7 one-half inch below dot K. Draw the shape of the curveto point of shoulder for back at dot V. Measure the curve from dot V' atpoint of shoulder in back to dot V at point of shoulder in front,leaving out the space in the measurement from dot X to dot W. If thismeasure corresponds with the measure given, the result is correct.

I shape the different parts of the back by using the part of squaremarked B, placing the point W ou dot E and the point K on dot W, anddrawing shape of curve No.5. Using the B part of square, I place thepointW at dot D and the point X at dot K and draw curve No. 4, crossingcurve No. 5. In this manner the space between dots K and Wremoves theunnecessary fullness so often seen at that particular point, giving anugly shape to the back. Lines 18 19 20 21 are drawn with the S part oi'scale or square as indicated in the diagram.

I next obtain size of darts for front by measuring the sides and backpieces at waist-line, which have already been formed. Half thewaist-measure being twelve inches, I subtract the number of inchesobtained by measurement from 12, and the number will be the sizerequired for the darts, and dividing this number by 2 gives the size ofeach dart. I next locate the darts by making dot Y on line 15 two inchesfrom dot S, the size of each dart being at waist-line one and one-halfinch wide.

I make dot Z one and one-halt' inch from dot Y. This is the requiredwidth of rst dart. I locate second dart three-fourths inch from firstIOO IIS

Ivo

by making dot A A on line 15 three-fourths inch from dot Z, dot B B oneand onehalf inch from dot A A, dot C C and dot D D at the center of eachdart. With the square I draw lines 23 and 24 from line 15 to line 14Cthrough the dots D D and U O.

- I shape the darts by using D part of square, placing its point X online l4,at the junctions of lilies 23 and 24, with line 14, and drawingcurves Nos. 6, 7, S, 9, in the manner indicated on the diagram.

To form a proper shape for front, I put dot G Gr one-half inch from line9, at a point corresponding exactly with the height of second dart, andfrom this point draw broken line 22 upward to N and downward to dot S.Extend all the lines and curves to their necessary termination below thewaist-line. This completes the draft.

If all directions for taking measures and drafting have been carefullycomplied with, theresult will be a waist fitting perfectly withoutchange of seam.

Having thus fully described my invention, what I claim, and desire tosecure by Letters 2 5 Patent, is-

A pattern chart and square for measuring and drafting dresses7 providedwith scales of inches, curved slots.B N, and curved edges N S A, havingthe shape shown, and marked and 3o graduated as specified, for thepurposes set forth.

In testimony that Iclaim theforegoing asmy own invention I aliix mysignature in presence of two witnesses.

LUCIE ROBINSON.

Witnesses: p

EMMA TULLAR, MORRIS PLAGE.

